1. Listed is a picture of a header raise valve that shows what o-rings (especially the square cut o-ring) that need to be replaced if leak down or raising or lowering problems occur.  Usually the problem is item #30, part #71320199 and item #31, part #71321101 was moving with the poppet.  The square cut o-ring, item #14, part #71367795 or #70928241 has been changed to #70923845.  Cleaning of orifices behind screwdriver plugs is important as well.  Finally, lapping the needle into the seats lightly is a final suggestion.  Don't lap so much as to stick poppet in seat. (See next tip for more information.)

1. Bin loading auger wobble.  As the R 40-50 etc. bin loading augers wear they will develop a little wobble in the joints.  This can be stabilized by cutting a strap of angle and bracing the vertical pole that holds the auger from the grain bin front brace to the cradle.  Install with thumb screw bolt so it is easy to position when folding down the extensions. This will prevent excessive wear and future problems and just take a few minutes to fabricate.
   

2. Check your a/c drain hose at left side of feeder housing and make sure it is not draining on your jackshaft bearing.  If it is you need to move it out of the way so it doesn't damage the bearings.

1. This is a picture of a worn o-ring, 71321101, around the raise seat 71320199.  This allows the seat to move and results in leakdown and erratic slow raise.  The crooked bent pliers can be used to extract the seat without removing the block from the combine.  If the valve is removed always replace the o-rings on the block around the poppets with the square cut 71367795 rings.
   
   The only way to easily insert the rings is to make a "U" and clamp with a set of pliers such as pictured and insert in the bore and then release and finish seating with o-ring pick.  Otherwise you will loose any religion one may of had.

1. On all F's one can change the gears part #71143683 and 71143684 and increase or decrease your transmission speed about 20%, no parts needed.  We used to slow down the factory arrangement on F's in muddy ground so one could run 2nd gear about 50% variable.  This allows one to back up without being in fast reverse like you do when running 1st as fast as possible.  However, this will cut top speed to 14 mph.  You can change both hydros and gear drive.  Standard transmission in fast speed and hydros in slow.  (29 and 32 tooth gears) K's and K2 can be changed but have to buy a gear and don't know if it is still available or not. This was a 2 hour job usually.

1. Make sure high idle is at max no load speed.
   

2. (All Deutz Engines) Clean engine fins and oil coolers daily.  Repair all oil leaks immediately, even small leaks can collect dust and dirt causing engine to overheat.
   

3. If your diesel engine seems sluggish and you're having a lot of "Low Engine RPM" Tattletale warnings, your injection pump may need to be re-calibrated.  Remove the pump and send to Lee at:
   

4. Midwest Diesel Injection Service
   2773 200th St, Ft. Dodge, IA 50501
   Ph: (515) 576-5501
   (Be sure to explain that you want the pump calibrated for combine use)
   

5. Don't forget to adjust and lube the chain at the top of the clean grain elevator.  Also while you are in the grain bin you should grease the u-joint on the bin fill auger.
   

6. All gleaners use some type of centrifugal pre-cleaner.  No matter how much suction you have, it will not work if the pre-cleaner is plugged from moist trash that has accumulated down through the years as the pre cleaner is rained in and then started in dust before it dries.  The units are easy to remove and can be gently pounded and shaken to loosen the crud, then blown out from the top, bottom, and side suction hole.  If you notice large pieces of trash that you think should have been expelled, then it may be plugged.  Any soot in the filter that smells like exhaust will indicate a faulty aspirator.  If you have an OEM pipe that burns out RW sells a bolt-on aspirator that will work nicely.  One off an L3 works also. (See next tip for additional cleaning info)
   

7. From Buckeyegleaner:  You can pop the little thingys out of the pre-cleaner with a 1/2" rachet extension by bumping in the center of the shotgun shells on the opposite end of the twirlies till they pop out of each other.  Then clean out the housing and reinstall with needle-nose pliers and a twisting action until they snap together.  Works pretty easy once you get the hang of it and can really get it clean without cutting a hole in it and making a patch.  FYI my mechanics figured it out
   

8. If you have a throat feed chain that jumps one tooth ahead of the other side there is a trick to easily retime them.  (A Deere owner showed this to me so I gotta give credit where it is due...they have plenty of experience here!) take a 1/2" by 3 or 4" bolt and tie a long string around the head..the bolts not yours.  The reason will become obvious.  Now place the bolt in the sprocket groove that is about to pull the chain backwards when you pull the belt in reverse rotation.  The bolt will prevent the chain roller from entering the notch the bolt occupies.  As you continue to roll the chain backward the chain will "jump" one tooth ahead on the sprocket.. which is rolling backwards which means it will now be one tooth behind where it started. So if you look at the throat from the front, and the left chain is one tooth ahead of the right then use this trick on the left chain to make it time to the right.  Access to the front chain is gained from the bombay doors and false door (yuk-collar full of junk)(but at least no crawling up throat is involved) The rear chain sprockets can be fondled through grain bin doors.  Note: failure to tie string to bolt will result in Sherlock Holmes type activity in locating said instrument of trickery.   Now check the tension of the chains (front and rear).  A loose back one can cause constipation between chains which can cause front chain to jump.  Tighten the rear chain a couple of tenths tighter than specs on three strand systems.
   

9. Unloader swivel maintenance!  Using a grease needle, shoot the track full and keep it full.  If your balls are loose the track needs to be taken off by sliding back the auger then unbolting the tube via the stud bolts.  Remove the master links in the chain and then slide the tube rearward to gain access to the welded plug where they put the balls in.  Support this with a stout Mother in Law or other object while working on this so you don't have to take it all the way off.  Be safe.  Take a chisel and pop it off (the plug not MIL) and remove the old balls and clean out the track and then replace them with new balls if necessary and pack it full of wheel bearing grease and balls.  This will prevent you from rolling your auger out and seeing it continue on downward and impersonating a posthole digger...one day when you least need it to happen...This is one of the most neglected areas on a Gleaner.  Later models have grease zerks (not to be confused with other "jerks" who don't run Gleaners) and if you are real ingenious you can put these on yours with a drill and 1/8 pipe tap...happy gleanerin'.
   

10. Stuck reservoir brake caps on most gleaners can be removed by placing a 3/4 drive socket upside down on square 3/4 cap head then inserting a 3/4 extension into the remaining hole and attaching impact or ratchet and twisting out.  Do this before you round it off with an open end wrench.  Apply never seez when reinstalling.
    

11. When replacing the fan belt on Deutz 6 cyl. engines don't forget there is a place for a 1/2" ratchet to be inserted in the idler to facilitate tension free belt replacement.

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