Adjust auger down and then back for even feeding.

Adjust stripper plate to keep material from climbing over the auger.

Relocate belt tension shock because belt will rub on bolt.

Keep crop dividers adjusted to proper height and bounce.

Install divider extensions. A must for even feeding.

Keep stop bolts in electric for and aft so reel doesn't contact auger.

From Mark Lehenbauer (agr1290@hotmail.com):
We have an 800 25' header, and the plate that holds the bearings in place in the center of the tube will and does crack.  It will screw many things up when this happens.  We put a new auger in last year and ran 400 acres and it cracked again.  Kuhns eq. in Mt. Sterling IL found another dealer that just started to make an upgrade that can be welded to the inside of the tube to strengthen these plates.  If anyone needs to know how to do it, call the store at 800-644-5846 and ask for Allen.  Ours is the second 25' and they had one other 30' do this.  If you have any questions feel free to e-mail me back.  (Note: We are working on getting pics of this mod. Stay tuned.... Tom Langan)

From Hyper Harvest II   -   fitting a full finger auger to a 500 series grainhead makes a night and day difference to feeding.  Marshall Enterprises ( 815-866-0029 )  does a factory installation look.  AMS Limited ( 217-971-6532 ) also advertises this conversion.  This should have been a factory option from the beginning.

Keep ear stripper plates adjusted for crops.

Keep grass knives adjusted to keep trash from hanging under header.

Keep good, square edge on snapping roll blades.  Turn around or replace if worn.

Consider getting snapping roll blades chromed to lengthen life.

Wear rods on Hugger stripper plates - We reworked a six row hugger this year before harvest and just finished a eight row hugger last week.  With all the tinwork off, we took a torch and removed all of remaining rod except for the top 2-2 1/2".  This is where the small stripper is at the back of the stripper plates so the rolls don't wrap.  After removing rods with torch we ground remaining welds down and then we purchased 3/8 square stainless steel metal.  This comes in 12ft. lengths.  We cut the 3/8 square to length and then starting at the top of the stripper plate, we tacked it in place flush with the top side of stripper plate.  Reason for this is we see a excessive amount of shelling when the ear comes down and hits the 3/8" round rod that protrudes above stripper plate.  When you get to curvature of stripper plate,heat metal with a torch and form it to stripper plate.  Then weld 3/8" stainless in place after you have it tacked where you want it.  We used a wire welder to do this.  After running in the field for one season, saw less shelling at stripper plates at higher ground speeds and virtually no visual wear on stainless that we could see.  Time will tell to see how long they last.  If time permits, I will try to get pictures to Tom L. Hyper Harvest II

Lay a piece of 3" suction hose behind the cutter bar and clamp it by bolting conduit clamps under the existing hold down bolts. The crop will be flipped over the hose and actually be 3" closer to the reel, thus eliminating feed problems due to short beans.  It seems there has been some confusion as to hose sizes.  Try to find hose that is close to 3" O.D. - it may end up being closer to 3.5" depending on the hose you find.  There are also some people using 3" PVC pipe cut into sections to allow cutterbar to flex.